Chi versus Chi

Thursday, October 16, 2008













I only now realized that my cat had same figure with Chi. Chi is the character in Anime and Manga (Japan Animation) which have same title "Chi" (Chi is Sweet Home). That is funny! I loved that XD

Cat Vaccinations

Tuesday, September 16, 2008


There are a number of vaccinations available for cats. The need for them depends on the risk of exposure for your cat. An indoor cat, kept alone or with only one other cat, is pretty unlikely to be exposed to diseases which require contact with other cats. An outdoor cat who roams the yard freely is probably interacting with other cats whether you see them or not. This cat needs to be protected against more diseases, since the risk is much higher. Please consult your local veterinarian for more information about cat vaccinations.




Table Of Cat Vaccinations

Vaccinations >>>>>>>>When to administer (age)

First feline panleukopenia (FPL),
Feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR), >>> 8-9 weeks

Feline calicivirus (FCV)

(all three components given in one shot) >>> 12 weeks

· Booster shot of above


Feline leukemia virus (FeLV)
(to be administrated after the booster, >>>> 12 weeks

only if needed)

Rabies shot ( if needed) >>>>>>>>16 weeks

· Booster shot >>>>>>>>>1 year


· Rabies

Rabies vaccinations are required by law. The first rabies vaccination is good for one year. In many states subsequent vaccinations are good for three years. In other states, they are only valid for one year by law. Please check with your vet to determine the legal requirements in your state. Vaccinating your pet for rabies may literally save its life for two reasons. Rabies is a threat in many areas and it is a horrible disease. In addition, an unvaccinated pet who bites a human being, even by accident, is subject to long quarantine periods or even death for the purpose of testing for rabies infection.


· Panleukopenia

Panleukopenia is the cat disease most often referred to as "distemper". It is a deadly disease. Fortunately, it is not a very common disease as vaccination against it appears to be very successful. Kittens require a series of vaccinations every 3 to 4 weeks from the time vaccinations start until they are approximately 16 weeks old. Since this virus does not always require direct contact for transmission, it is generally included in the series of recommended vaccinations for all cats.


· Rhinotracheitis

Rhinotracheitis is caused by a herpes virus. It causes respiratory disease in its acute phase. Chronically, it can be the cause of persistant eye irritation and corneal disease. Due to the potentially chronic nature of this disease it is also usually recommended for most cats. It appears that the protection against this disease from vaccination is of relatively short duration and yearly boosters seem to be a necessity.


· Calicivirus

This virus also causes respiratory disease in its acute phase. It also can become chronic. Affected cats may have persistant gum disease or chronically recurring upper respiratory disease. This vaccine is recommended for most cats.


· Feline Leukemia

Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) requires direct contact with an infected cat in order to spread. For this reason, it may not be necessary for cats confined to the home. This vaccine should be administered to cats who live full-time or part-time outdoors.


· Feline Infectious Peritonitis

There are very few instances in which the use of this vaccine is warranted. There is a great deal of question about how well this vaccine works.



Source : http://www.geocities.com/feliscatus_my/index.html

Interaction with humans


Human attitudes toward cats vary widely. Some people keep cats for casual companionship as pets. Others go to great lengths to pamper their cats, sometimes treating them as if they were children. Cats are also bred and shown as registered pedigree pets, in a hobby known as the cat fancy.

Because of their small size, domesticated house cats pose almost no danger to adult humans — the main hazard is the possibility of infection (e.g., cat scratch disease, or, rarely, rabies) from a cat bite or scratch. Cats can also potentially inflict severe scratches or puncture an eye, though this is quite rare (although dogs have been known to be blinded by cats in fights, where the cat specifically and accurately targeted the eyes of the larger animal).


Kitten Advice

Thursday, July 17, 2008

There are some guidelines and advice from choosing your kitten to bringing it home to settle in. Always remember that owning a cat is a lifetime responsibility not to be taken lightly.

Choosing your Kitten

The first thing to consider when choosing your kitten is if you are looking for a family companion or a cat that you intend to show or breed in future.

If you are looking for a family pet, then the most important consideration will be temperament and health. If you are looking for a cat to show or breed let the breeder know this when you first enquire to be sure they have suitable kittens for you to view. A breeding or show cat should meet the breed standard showing no obvious faults.

When choosing your kitten, you should also take into consideration the type of home it comes from and it's mother's state of health. Do not buy a kitten from a breeder that will not let you see the mother cat. In pedigree cats, the mother cat should also be a true representative of the breed.

A healthy kitten will have bright and shiny eyes, glossy coat, clean bottom and an alert demeanour. Ears should also be clean, nose cool and damp without any nasal discharge with pale pink mouth and gums.

Feeding Guidelines

Kittens like adult cats require wholesome, high-protein food and a constant supply of water. Food is served more frequently with kittens than with adult cats. See my section on feline nutrition for guidelines on adult cats. Food and water bowls should be kept clean at all times.

Below I've listed some general feeding guidelines for your new kitten sorted by age.

  • Age 3-5 Months: 5 to 4 meals daily

  • Age 6-8 Months: 3 to 4 meals daily

  • Age 9-12 Months: 3 meals daily

Kittens should be feed tinned or fresh food as part of a balanced diet with quality kitten dry cat food from a reputable manufacturer left down at all times to graze on.

Your reward for feeding your kitten a well-balanced diet is a healthy beautiful adult cat.


Toileting

Pedigree kittens are fully litter trained from a very early age. With any kitten irrespective of breed to avoid accidents it is absolutely vital that for the early days and weeks in a new home, the kitten is aware at all times where the litter tray is. In a new environment, the kitten may not be able to find the litter tray alone especially with a home with two or more floors and several rooms. It is important that the kitten is restricted to one area for the first few weeks and only allowed into other areas of your home under supervision.

Once your kitten has been allowed to roam freely, always keep a watchful eye and keep taking your new kitten back to it's litter tray at regular intervals. If you are living in a very large house on multiple floors, it is advisable to have a litter tray on every floor.

When your new kitten first arrives home, it is also advisable to use the same cat litter as your breeder while your kitten settles in. Later you can gradually change this to a brand of your choice. The litter tray should also be kept clean at all times. Changing all or some of the litter tray contents daily is recommended to avoid accidents. Cats will quickly find an alternative site to use as a toilet if the tray is not cleaned daily.


Settling In

On arrival home with your new kitten, place the kitten while still in the carrier in a suitable warm room where the kitten can be safely kept for a few days. Let the kitten come out to explore in it's own time. Make sure there is a litter tray in the room and that the kitten knows exactly where it is. The kitten's room should also have a bowl of food and water kept a suitable distance from the litter tray. Cats are reluctant to use a litter tray that is too close to the cat's food. Let your new kitten come to you in it's own time.




Getting to know your Kitten

It can take days or even weeks to establish a relationship with a kitten so please be patient. Kittens need time to bond with you and before long your new kitten will become your best friend.

For the first few weeks, your kitten shouldn't be allowed to roam your home unsupervised when you are not there. You should put your kitten back in their own room with their litter tray, food and water. Make sure your new kitten also has a comfortable bed or basket to sleep in with some toys to play with.

It may be worth considering obtaining two kittens from your breeder especially if you will be out of the home for most of the day. This way they will always have a constant playmate and two cats can exercise each other far more effectively than you can.

Please remember that your new kitten should be kept indoors at all times and shouldn't be allowed outdoors until they are old enough to cope with outdoor life.

Practice Emergency First Aid

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Practicing before an emergency can be a vital investment:

  • The more comfortable you are in using the contents of your first aid kit, the more smoothly you can respond should the need arise.
  • If your cat is cooperative, you could try making leg bandages or taking his temperature. More than likely, your cat will be impatient with your unfamiliar manipulations of bandaging; you could practice bandaging on a stuffed animal.
  • Practice lifting and carrying your cat.
  • Practice driving the route to your nearest vet emergency facility.
  • Establish a professional relationship with the facility and keep emergency telephone numbers handy (i.e., wallet, vehicle, refrigerator, and address book).

For Our Cats

The following items are easily found at pharmacies or wherever over-the-counter drugs are sold. Store the items in a moisture proof container that is easily accessible in an emergency, but out of reach of children and pets. Include a list of emergency telephone numbers on an index card. Laminate the card or place it in a plastic cover. Make a duplicate kit to keep in your vehicle in case of emergencies while traveling. When travelling with your cat, research the availability of emergency veterinarians to and at your destination. The better prepared you are, the less likely you will panic in emergency situations.

  • Two rolls of gauze: one roll 2" wide, one 3-4" wide
  • White surgical tape: 1" in width
  • Two rolls of elastic wrap: one roll 2" wide, one 3-4" wide
  • One roll of cotton battin 12" in width
  • An emergency ice pack
  • A bottle of one percent (1%) hydrogen peroxide
  • A box of exam gloves
  • A pillow case - for transporting the ill or injured cat
  • A blanket - for warmth
  • A towel - for a splint
  • A bottle of saline eye wash
  • Two rectal thermometers
  • A pair of blunt-tipped scissors
  • A pair of tweezers
  • A flashlight
  • A bottle of antihistamine
  • A box of baking soda

Cat First Aid

The first aid treatments outlined here should be used only until you can get professional help for your cat.

Always call your veterinarian ahead to alert the office of an emergency.

Know the number and address of the nearest 24 hr facility for emergencies that occur when your veterinarian is not in the office.

The best way to carry your cat to the veterinarian is to wrap her in a heavy towel or blanket.

Serious cut or bite

In cats, most skin wounds do not bleed profusely unless a larger, underlying blood vessel is opened. Avoid manipulating the injured area since this can increase bleeding.

- Cover the wounded area with a sterile bandage or clean cloth and apply
direct pressure.

- Secure with tape if necessary. The bandage should stay in place firmly but
not tightly.

- Take your cat to the veterinarian immediately.

- Do not use a tourniquet (it is not as effective as direct pressure and may
cause additional damage).

Breathing Problems

Brain damage can occur if breathing is interrupted. It is not recommended you waste valuable time performing artificial respiration or CPR on your cat unless you are positive you can administer them expertly to restore normal breathing and heartbeat. It is much safer to seek immediate veterinary care.

Broken Bone

* Never try to set a broken bone yourself.
* Control bleeding, if any, and restrict your cat’s movement while transporting her to the veterinarian.

Choking

* Open the cat’s mouth by pressing on either side of her jaw to see if the object is visible. Do not tilt the head backwards.
* Use tweezers to remove obvious obstruction. You may use your fingers also but be careful of being bitten.
* If the object is not visible do not poke inside her mouth since this may cause the object to become lodged further.
* Instead, hold the cat upside down and press sharply on her chest with both hands.
* Even if you remove the object your cat should be checked by the veterinarian for any damage to the mouth or throat.

Electric Shock

Playful cats, especially kittens that are teething, may chew on electrical cords and this can lead to electric shock. Electric shock can produce burns on the tongue, palate, lip folds and corners of the mouth. Your cat may salivate profusely or have problems breathing.

* Never touch an animal that is touching an exposed electrical wire.
* Turn off the current then use a dry stick to get your cat away from the wire.
* Get veterinary help as soon as possible.

Eye Injury

* For all eye injuries, take your cat to the veterinarian promptly.
* Do not let your cat rub her eyes
* Do not place medicine in your cat's eyes, unless instructed by your veterinarian.

Frostbite

Your cat can suffer frostbite on her ears, feet and tail.
Symptoms include: pale, glossy skin which then reddens and becomes painful to the touch.

* Immediately take your cat into a warm place.
* Thaw out frostbitten areas slowly by applying, moist towels that are changed frequently.
* Continue until areas become flushed.
* Check with the veterinarian to the severity of the frostbite since it can result in damage to the affected areas.

Heatstroke, Fever

Heatstroke occurs in cats left in poorly ventilated, closed vehicles. Lack of drinking water on a hot day or excessive exercise can also be the cause
Symptoms include; panting, foaming at the mouth, extreme agitation and depression or coma.

* Sponge your cat with cool water and seek veterinary care immediately.
* If the condition is severe, submerge her in cool water or place ice packs to her head and neck and get to a vet immediately.

Poisoning
If you know or suspect your cat has swallowed poison call your vet immediately

Symptoms may include vomiting, diarrhea, labored breathing, whimpering, collapse or convulsions.

* Contact your vet immediately for instructions.
* Do not induce vomiting unless the vet recommends it, since some poisons can be even more harmful to your cat if vomited.

Shock

Shock frequently accompanies traumatic injuries especially car accidents or serious falls.
Symptoms include semi-consciousness or coma, panting and rapid breathing, a slow heartbeat and reduced body heat, especially in the extremities.

* Wrap your cat in a blanket to keep her warm and keep her head lower than her heart.
* Take her to the veterinarian immediately.

Skunks

* If your cat has encountered a skunk, make sure your cat’s rabies vaccinations are up to date because skunks can carry rabies.
* To get rid of odor, wash your cat with tomato juice then give her a bath.